Docs
From your first model to a finished print — including the answers to "why did this not print".
Start here
- 1
Make your first model
Say one sentence on the home page or in the assistant, e.g. "a box 10 cm long, 6 cm wide and 3 cm tall with 2 mm walls and a 2 cm hole in the top". The more specific, the closer the first version.
- 2
Adjust it
Click a face and say a sentence to change just that part, or drag a dimension handle and then type the exact value.
- 3
Export and print
Before export it checks wall thickness, overhangs and watertightness. Then export 3MF (recommended, carries real units) or STL and open it in your slicer.
Numbers you will need
- Wall thickness
- With a 0.4 mm nozzle: 1.6 mm (4 perimeters) is safe for enclosures, 2.4 mm+ for load-bearing, 1.2 mm is fine for cosmetic parts. Below 0.8 mm barely prints at all.
- Tolerance
- 0.1–0.2 mm for a tight fit, 0.2–0.4 mm normal, 0.5 mm to slide freely. Your machine has the final say — a test coupon settles it fastest.
- Overhangs
- Past 45 degrees you need supports. But reorienting the part often removes them entirely, which is much better (less filament, no scars).
- Text and fine detail
- Keep strokes at least 1 mm wide and 0.6 mm deep or proud. Engraving beats embossing. Dense scripts need to be larger than Latin letters.
Export formats
- 3MF (recommended)
- Carries real units, so nothing arrives 1000× too small. Smaller files, better precision, and it can carry colour.
- STL
- The universal fallback — even decades-old software reads it. It has no unit information; most slicers assume millimetres, which is usually right.
- OBJ
- For taking the geometry into other modeling software. Not needed for printing itself.